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Michigan is now a full-service sports betting state! Michiganders and visitors to the state can place sports bets on their mobile devices, their computers, and several different retail locations around both mdjsjeux bettingadvice. The online launch in January marked the endpoint of a process that began in December Governor Gretchen Whitmer signed into law two bills, S and Hwhich legalized sports betting both online and in casinos. Incidentally, the two bills also legalized internet poker, online casino games and online fantasy sports. In short, Michigan is quite the destination for placing a bet now.

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HANDICAP BETTING SOCCER LINES

Unscrew hex. Screw tool fully onto the flywheel thread by screwing in the extractor bolt with wrench Remove Woodruff key from crankshaft. Unscrew 2 Taptite screws M6 with socket wrench 10, lift trigger cable off the cable clamp. Take off trigger coil 1 and the rubber plug. Attention: The cable clamp 2 need not be removed unless it is also necessary to remove the crankshaft. Svitare il dado M18 con una chiave da 27 e togliere la rondella elastica.

Avvitare completamente l'estrattore sulla filettat ura del volano ed estarre il volano. Levare la linguetta dall'albero motore. Rimuovere il pick-up 1 ed il tappo gomma. Attenzione: Il giuntacavi 2 deve essere svitato solo nel caso di smontaggio dell'albero motore. Gang einlegen, Sicherungsblech aufbiegen und Sechstkantmutter SW 30 abschrauben. Sicherungsblech und Kettenrad abnehmen. Engage 1 st gear, bend back tab-washer and unscrew hex.

Remove tab-washer and sprocket. Inserire la prima marcia. Piegare la rondella di sicurezza e svitare il dado esagonale M 20 con chiave da Togliere la rondella di sicurezza e il pignone. Motor im Montagebock verdrehen, damit Kupplungsseite oben zu liegen kommt. Steuerritzel mit Abzieher abziehen.

Turn engine on trestle so that clutch side faces upwards. Use puller to remove timing pulley. Girare il blocco motore sulla staffatura in modo che il lato frizione venga a trovarsi in alto. Svitare il dado esagonale M16 della puleggia comando con una chiave da 24 e togliere la puleggia comando. Estrarre la puleggia comando con l'estrattore Drahtsprengring 1 von der Kickstarterwelle und O-Ring 2 von der Schaltwelle entfernen.

Anlaufscheibe 3 und Zwischenrad 4 mit darunter liegender Anlaufscheibe abnehmen. Remove circlip 1 from kickstart shaft and O-ring 2 from shift shaft. Remove the 4 Allen screws M5 and the electric starter drive cover. Lift thrust washer 3 and idler wheel 4 and thrust washer beneath. Togliere l'anello di sicurezza 1 dall'albero messa in moto e l'OR 2 dall'albero cambio. Svitare le 4 brugole M5 e togliere il coperchio per l'avviamento elettrico con OR. Rimuovere lo spessore 3 e l'ingranaggio intermedio 4 con lo spessore sottostante.

Unscrew 12 Allen screws M6 of clutch cover using wrench 5. Lift off clutch cover using 2 large screwdrivers applied at the lugs 1 provided. Don't lever between sealing surfaces. Caution: When taking off the clutch cover, check that the thrust washers of the helical gear 2 for revolution counter drive are not stuck to the clutch cover. Remove 6 Allen screws M5 of clutch thrust plate with wrench 8 crosswise. Remove hexagon screws lock washers, clutch thrust plate and clutch springs. Svitare le 12 brugole M6 del coperchio frizione con una chiave da 5.

Sollevare il coperchio con 2 grandi cacciaviti per le apposite materozze 1. Allentare diagonalmente le 6 viti M5 del piattello di spinta per mezzo di una chiave a tubo da 8. Togliere le viti, le rondelle, il piattello di spinta e le molle della frizione. Sicherungsblech auf der Vorgelegewelle aufbiegen. Mitnehmerfixierung und Sicherungsblech entfernen. Kupplungskorb mit Mitnehmer und Lamellenpaket abheben. Bend back tab washer on clutch shaft. Place clutch hub locking tool 1 on clutch hub and unscrew hex.

Remove tab washer and locking tool. Lift off clutch drum complete with hub and all plates. Piegare la rondella di sicurezza sull'albero primario. Sovrapporre l'attrezzo bloccaggio frizione 1 al tamburello frizione e svitare il dado M18 con chiave da Sollevare l'attrezzo bloccaggio frizione e togliere la rondella di sicurezza. Sollevare il tamburello coi dischi frizione. Zwischenrad 3 , Schraubenrad 4 mit Anlaufscheiben und Starterrad 5 mit darunterliegender Anlaufscheibe entfernen. Scheibenfeder und O-Ring von der Kurbelwelle abnehmen.

Remove 2 needle cages, bearing sleeve and thrust washer. Remove oil pump gear, extract drive peg 1 and remove thrust washer 2 if fitted. Remove idler gear 3 , helical gear 4 with thrust washers and starter gear 5 and thrust washer underneath.

Remove Woodruff key and O-ring from crankshaft. Togliere le 2 gabbie a rullini, la bussola cuscinetto e la ralla dall'albero primario. Rimuovere la linguetta e l'OR dall'albero motore. Svitare il dado M14 con chiave da 22 dall'albero di compensazione, rimuovere la rondella elastica e l'ingranaggio della ruota libera, togliere le 2 gabbie a rullini. Ausgleichsrad mit Abzieher 1 abziehen.

Antriebsrad und Gegenrad von der Kurbelwelle abziehen. Scheibenfedern von Kurbelwelle und Ausgleichswelle entfernen. Extract balancer gear with puller 1 Use the snap-ring previously removed to retain the puller. Pull drive gear and balancer drive gear from crankshaft. Remove Woodruff keys from crankshaft and balance shaft. Unscrew 4 counter-sunk screws M5 with screwdriver and remove retaining plate 2 for transmission bearings and the shims underneath for mainshaft and clutch shaft.

Estrarre l'ingranaggio compensazione con l'estrattore 1 Utilizzare il seeger rimosso prima, per estrarre l'ingranaggio. Estrarre l'ingranaggio primario e quello sottostante per l'albero di compensazione dall'albero motore.

Rimuovere le linguette dall'albero motore e dall'albero di compensazione. Svitare le 4 viti M5 e rimuovere la piastra di fissaggio 2 dei cuscinetti e gli spessori di sotto per albero secondario e primario. Remove crankshaft locking screw 1. Remove 6 Allen head screws M6 of oil sump cover with wrench 5 and take off oil sump cover 2 , with magnetic plug 3 , oil screen, gasket and 2 O-rings. Svitare la vite di fissaggio dell'albero motore 1.

Togliere le 6 brugole M6 del coperchio della coppa con una chiave da 5 e levare il coperchio 2 con la vite magnetica 3 , il retino, la guarnizione ed i 2 OR. Motor im Montagebock wieder mit Kupplungsseite nach oben drehen. Beide Fixierschrauben 4 vom Montagebock entfernen. Achtung auf die Ausgleichsscheiben der Kurbelwelle und der Ausgleichswelle.

Turn engine on trestle so that ignition side faces upwards. Unscrew the 10 Allen-head screws M6 and spring washers with wrench 5. Turn engine on trestle again so that clutch side faces upwards. Screw puller plate with 6 screws M6x25 onto the clutchside half of the crankcase. Remove both fixing screws O from trestle. Screw the 4 screws into puller plate by hand. With wrench 22 tighten the 4 screws uniformly until left crankcase half can be raised.

Take it off and remove puller plate. Take care of the shims on crankshaft and balance shaft. Take oil separater foam blocks out of right and left crankcase halves. Girare il motore sulla staffatura in modo che il lato accensione sia in alto. Svitare le 10 brugole M6 con una chiave da 5 e togliere le rondelle elastiche.

Girare nuovamente il motore sulla staffatura in modo che il lato frizione sia in alto. Avvitare la piastra di estrazione sul carter, lato frizione, con 6 brugole M6x25 del coperchio olio. Svitare le 2 viti 4 dalla staffatura. Avvitare a mano le 4 viti di spinta alla staffatura. Avvitare uniformemente le 4 viti per mezzo di una chiave 22 fino a che il semi-carter, lato sinistro, si possa rimuovere.

Rimuovere il semi-carter sinistro e togliere la piastra di estrazione. Far attenzione agli spessori dell'albero motore e dell'albero di compensazione per il rimontaggio. Togliere le spugne di trattenimento olio dai semi-carter. Beide Schaltstangen 6 herausziehen und die 3 Schaltgabeln 8 herausnehmen. Scheibe herausnehmen. Schaltwelle 7 komplett mit Rollenindexhebel, Indexfeder und darunterliegender Scheibe herausziehen.

Ausgleichswelle aus dem Rillenkugellager herausziehen. Mount right crankcase half on trestle with 2 fixing screws and spacers. Remove the 2 shift fork spindles 6 and the 3 shift forks 8. Hook index lever with screwdriver into projecting lug in crankcase half.

Disengage gearshift pawl 9 from the shift drum 5 and remove shift drum. Attention On model without neutral gear indicator, there is a steel plate in the crankcase under the shift drum which might remain in position. Remove this plate. Pull out shift shaft assy 7 with roller index lever, index spring and the shim placed below. Extract balance shaft from the ball bearing. Turn crankcase half on trestle into vertical position. Hold mainshaft and clutch shaft by hand and with a mallet knock gently from outside onto main shaft.

Then you can withdraw the two shafts with gears out of their bearings. Fissare il semi-carter con 2 viti e bussole distanziale sulla staffatura. Togliere le 2 aste forchetta 6 e le 3 forchette cambio 8. Agganciare la leva index nel nasello del semi-carter destro con un cacciavite.

Abbassare l'arpionismo 9 dal desmodromico 5 e togliere il desmodromico stesso. Attenzione Nel caso dell'esecuzione motore senza spia del folle, si trova un disco d'acciaio sotto il desmodromico che rischia di rimanere nel Carter.

Togliere il disco. Estrarre l'albero cambio compl. Estrarre l'albero di compensazione dal cuscinetto a sfere. Girare il semi-carter sulla staffatura nella posizione verticale. Einziehspindel in Einziehring einschrauben, bis diese an der Kurbelwelle anliegt. Einziehspindel auf Kurbelwelle aufschrauben und Einziehring nach links herausschrauben, bis Handgriff 4 in die Bohrungen des Einziehringes gesteckt werden kann.

Turn right crankcase half on trestle ignition side upwards. Insert puller ring 2 into puller plate assy 3 and screw pull-in spindle 1 into puller ring. Fix puller plate with 4 screws M6x25 on magneto side crankcase surface. Screw pull-in spindle into puller ring, screw pull-in spindle onto crankshaft and screw out the pull-in ring anticlockwise until bolt 4 can be inserted in the holes of the pull-in ring. Hold pull-in spindle by hand in this position and turn pull-in ring anticlockwise by means of the bolt until crankshaft is pressed out of the crankcase half.

When the crankshaft has been pressed out of the bearing seat, hold the crankshaft by hand and screw pull-in spindle off the crankshaft. Attention When pulling out crankshaft, take care not to damage the oil seal! Remove puller plate from crankcase and unscrew pull-in spindle from pull-in ring. Girare il semi-carter sulla staffatura in modo che il lato accensione sia in alto. Inserire la ghiera 2 nel piatto estrattore 3 ed avvitare l'asta a vite 1 nella ghiera. Fissare il piatto estrattore con 4 viti M6x25 sulla superficie del carter motore, lato accensione.

Avvitare l'asta a vite nella ghiera fino a toccare l'albero motore. Avvitare l'asta a vite sull'albero motore e svitare la ghiera verso sinistra fino a che la maniglia 4 si possa inserire nei fori della ghiera. Tenere l'asta a vite in questa posizione con la mano e girare la ghiera con la maniglia a sinistra fino a che l'albero motore esca dal semi-carter.

Attenzione: Estraendo l'albero motore, non danneggiare il corteco. Smontare il piatto estrattore dal carter e svitare l'asta a vite dalla ghiera. Unscrew the 3 Allen-head screws M6 with wrench 5 and take off oil filter cover together with O-ring. Lift oil filter element 1 with screwdriver and unscrew pressure retaining valve 2. Svitare le 3 brugole M6 per mezzo di una chiave da 5 e togliere il coperchio del filtro olio compreso l'OR di tenuta. Sollevare il filtro olio 1 con un cacciavite e svitare la valvola di pressione 2 con un cacciavite.

Turn right crankcase half on trestle so that inside faces upwards, unscrew the 3 Allen-head screws M6, remove lock washers and take off oil pump assy. Girare il semi-carter destro sulla staffatura con il lato interno verso l'alto, svitare le 3 brugole M6. Togliere le rondelle elastiche e la pompa dell'olio completa.

All ball-bearings must be cleaned with gasoline or kerosene only, not with degreasing or cold cleaning agent. Per estrarre i cuscinetti, il carter deve essere riscaldato a ca. To remove the clutch shaft ball-bearing, extract it with puller 1 For the balance shaft bearing 2 use the split dowel Crankshaft bearing and mainshaft bearing are tapped from outside towards the inside with an appropriate punch, after removal of the oil seals.

Clean crankcase half. Attention: Check all bearing seats and sealing surfaces. Clean oil bores for lubrication of crankshaft bearing, gearbox 3 with compressed air and check for free passage. Per sostituire il cuscinetto dell'albero primario, bisogna usare l'estrattore per cuscinetti 1 Per il cuscinetto dell'albero di compensazione 2 utilizzare la bussola spaccata Dopo l'allontanamento dei cortechi, i cuscinetti per l'albero motore e l'albero secondario devono essere battuti dall'esterno all'interno mediante una apposita spina.

Pulire accuratamente il semicarter. Attenzione Controllare tutte le sedi cuscinetti. Pulire tutti i fori di lubrificazione per cuscinetto albero motore, spruzzaolio per cambio 3 con aria compressa e controllare per passaggio libero. Demontieren der Starterwelle erfolgt nur dann, wenn diese oder das Sperrad bzw. Feder entspannen. Kickstarterhebel, Sperrad und Kickstarterfeder abnehmen.

Disassembly of kick start shaft is only necessary if the kickstart shaft, ratchet gear or spring has to be replaced. Mount the lever on the kickstarter shaft, hold it firmly and unscrew the stop screw 1 from crankcase, bottom side.

Relieve spring. Remove kickstart lever, ratchet gear and kickstart spring. Remove snap ring from kickstart shaft and washer from crankcase inside, pull kickstart shaft and washer out. Pull out dowel pin with pliers, place crankcase half on flat wooden board and knock out ball bearing from outside towards inside, tapping on the outer ring with an appropriate tool.

Clean crankcase half with gasoline or kerosene. Non e necessario lo smontaggio dell'albero messa in moto tranne quando si deve sostituire un componente del gruppo avviamento. Scaricare la molla. Togliere le spine carter con una pinza, posare il semi-carter su un pannello di legno piano e, con una spina adatta, battere fuori il cuscinetto dall'esterno all'interno, battendo sull'anello esterno del cuscinetto. Pulire il semicarter con benzina o petrolio.

If crankcase or crankshaft are to be replaced, crankshaft axial play must be measured. Both crankcase halves are placed with the inside facing upwards, and a depth gauge is used to measure the distance from the crankcase joint surfaces to the base of the bearing seats. Add both measurements.

Push distance ring onto crankshaft magneto side, then measure the width over crankblades including distance ring and add the width of the 2 crankshaft bearings. If it is more, place shims as required, but only on the clutch side. Fare la somma dei due risultati di misurazione. Spingere lo spessore sull'albero motore, lato accensione, misurare la larghezza di montaggio e sommare con la larghezza dei due cuscinetti dell'albero motore.

Abmessungen der Ausgleichswelle und Breite der beiden Ausgleichswellenlager addieren. If crankcase or balance shaft has to be replaced, measure the axial play of the balance shaft. With a depth gauge measure the distance between the sealing surface on both crankcase halves and the bottom of the bearing seat. Add the 2 dimensions. Add the dimensions measured on balance shaft and the width of the 2 balance shaft bearings.

Sommare le misurazioni sull'albero di compensazione con la larghezza dei due cuscinetti dell'albero. When pressing out the crankshaft, the ball bearing may remain on the crankshaft. If this happens, pull it off with bearing puller , ring halves and ring In questo caso togliere il cuscinetto per mezzo dell'estrattore con i semianelli e l'anello Welle zwischen Spitzen auf Schlag kontrollieren 0,03 mm.

Achtung: Lagersitze 1 sind Schiebesitze. Check the 2 bearing seats 1 for wear and concentricity. Also check the Woodruff key groove. Check balance shaft between centres of a lathe or similar device for truth 0,03 mm. Attention: Bearing seats 1 are a sliding fit. Verificare l'incavatura per la linguetta.

Attenzione: Il calettamento dei cuscinetti sugli alberi di norma e libero comunque mai forzato. Hauptwelle bzw. Vorgelegewelle im Schraubstock fixieren Schonbacken verwenden. Vorgelege- und Hauptwelle zwischen Spitzen auf Schlag kontrollieren. Remove gears, and observe the following points:. Carefully clean all components, replacing any damaged items.

Gears should always be replaced in pairs. Check clutch shaft and mainshaft for truth between centers. Smontare gli ingranaggi e controllare lo stato delle seguenti parti:. Pulire accuratamente i pezzi e sostituire quelli difettosi. In questi casi controllare sempre fra contropunte che gli alberi del cambio, primario e secondario, non si siano storti. Fix mainshaft in vice with threaded end downwards and lubricate the split bearing 10 mm wide , fit it on shaft, slide 2nd gear freewheel, collar downwards, over the bearing, and fix with thrust-washer and snap-ring sharp edge facing upwards.

Push on 5th gear with dogs downwards. Mount snap-ring with sharp edge downwards, slide on thrust-washer, fit and lubricate the split bearing 13 mm wide , slide on 3rd gear free wheel with dogs upwards, and fix with thrust-washer and snap-ring sharp edge upwards. Mount 4th gear wheel with five-dog side upwards, mount thrust-washer and lubricated needle-cage, slide over 1st gear free wheel with collar upwards and mount thrust-washer. Fissare l'albero secondario nella morsa con la filettatura verso il basso, oliare la gabbia a rullini divisa larghezza 10 mm , posarla sull'albero, sovrapporvi la ruota folle della 2a marcia con lo spallamento verso il basso e fissare con la ralla e con l'anello elastico spigolo vivo in alto.

Montare l'ingranaggio della 5a marcia con gli innesti verso il basso. Montare l'anello elastico con lo spigolo vivo in basso, mettere la ralla, montare la gabbia a rullini divisa e oliata larghezza 13 mm , sovrapporvi la ruota folle della 3a marcia con gli innesti verso l'alto e fissare con la ralla e con l'anello elastico spigolo vivo in alto.

Montare l'ingranaggio della 4a marcia con il lato a 5 innesti verso l'alto, montare la ralla e la gabbia a rullini oliata, sovrapporvi la ruota folle della 1a marcia con lo spallamento verso l'alto e infine montare la ralla. Fix clutch shaft with threaded end downwards in vice, fit and lubricate the 12 mm split bearing, then slide on 4th gear free wheel with dogs upwards, and fix with thrust-washer and snap-ring sharp edge upwards.

Mount 3rd gear wheel with five dogs upwards, fit thrust-washer, slide on lubricated needle bearing, and slide on 5th gear free wheel with dogs downwards. Finally fit 2nd gear fixed-wheel. Fissare l'albero primario nella morsa con la filettatura verso il basso, posare la gabbia a rullini oliata larghezza 12 mm sull'albero, sovrapporvi la ruota folle della 4a marcia con gli innesti verso l'alto e fissare con la ralla e con l'anello elastico spigolo vivo in alto.

Infilare l'ingranaggio della 3a marcia con i 5 innesti verso l'alto, mettere la ralla, montare la gabbia a rullini oliata e sovrapporvi la ruota folle della 5a marcia con gli innesti verso il basso. Montare infine la ruota fissa della 2a marcia. Axialspiel zwischen Saugpumpenrotor bzw. By gently tapping the pump shaft with a maltet, separate pump cover and suction pump housing. Remove oil pump cover, take out inner and outer pressure rotor, withdraw pin, take out pump shaft with inner suction rotor and pin, take out outer suction rotor.

Clean parts and check for wear. Axial clearance between outer suction and pressure rotors and the pump housing surfaces should be max. All surfaces of the oilpump housings must be checked for perfect flatness. Clean suction pump housing and pressure pump housing with compressed air and check oil bores for free passage. For oil pump assembly, see page Separare il coperchio e il corpo della pompa aspirante, battendo leggermente sull'albero della pompa per mezzo di un mazzuolo di rame o plastica.

Togliere il coperchio della pompa dell'olio, estrarre la girante e il rotore eccentrico della pompa premente pompa piccola , togliere il grano dall'albero della pompa, togliere il corpo della pompa con la girante della pompa grande, estrarre il secondo rotore grande. Pulire i pezzi e verificare che non siano stati scalfiti da corpi estranei malauguratamente finiti nell'olio e nel sistema di lubrificazione.

Giuoco assiale tra il rotore eccentrico della pompa aspirante o il rotore eccentrico della pompa premente e la superficie piana: 0,1 mm. Il corpo della pompa ed il suo coperchio devono essere piani. Usura max. Soffiare i corpi della pompa premente ed aspirante con aria compressa e controllare tutti i fori per passaggio libero. Rimontaggio della pompa dell'olio vedi pagina Achtung: Kupplungskorb kpl. Check clutch drum, needle bearing, all clutch plates, thrust bearing and clutch hub for wear.

Check threads M5 in inner pressure plate. All clutch plates must be completely flat. Never change individual springs, always replace complete sets of 6. Check the clutch hub splines 1 and corresponding slots in the clutch drum 2 for wear. Check teeth and tooth flanks of primary drive gears 3 for wear. Attention: The primary drive gears are a matched pair, and must not be replaced individually.

Controllare l'usura della campana frizione, del cuscinetto a rullini, dei dischi guarniti, dei dischi acciaio, del cuscinetto, del piatto di spinta e del mozzo frizione. Controllare le filettature M5 del tamburello. I dischi d'acciaio devono essere piani. Se necessario, sostituire tutte le 6 molle.

Controllare le scanalature di guida 1 dei dischi in acciaio nel mozzo frizione e verificare il normale scorrimento assiale che non siano presenti segni di piantaggio. Controllare gli incastri di guida 2 anche per i dischi guarniti nella campana frizione che non siano intaccati. Eventualmente correggere con lima fine. Controllare accoppiamento e dentatura della trasmissione primaria 3. Attenzione: Sostituire esclusivamente la campana frizione con la relativa ruota dentata accoppiata.

Bei Bedarf Kupplungsfedern D nur satzweise austauschen. Place clutch disks on clutch hub E , starting with steel disk A 1,5 mm thick and then alternately 7 friction disks B 3 mm thick and 6 steel disks A 1,5 mm. Then fit the inner pressure plate C. The wear limit is 30 mm. If necessary, exchange the springs D but only as complete set. Mettere i dischi sul mozzo frizione, iniziando con un disco in acciaio A spessore 1,5 mm , quindi alternativamente 7 dischi guarniti B spessore 3 mm e 6 dischi acciaio A spessore 1,5 mm.

Quindi si monta il tamburello. Limite d'usura: 30 mm. Sostituire le molle frizione D solo in serie completa. Remove screw M5 1 with screwdriver, remove leaf-spring 2 and tension-spring 3 , and check release plate 4 at ball races for wear, replacing if necessary. Allentare la brugola M5 1 , e per mezzo di un cacciavite, togliere la molla a balestra 2 e la molla di trazione 3.

Controllare l'usura della chiocciola frizione 4 sulle sedi per le sfere. Eventualmente sostituire e riassemblare. Dabei das Schraubenrad nach unten festhalten. Der Zusammenbau erfolgt in umgekehrter Reihenfolge. Unscrew banjo bolt, pull the cable drive shaft 1 out of the worm gear 2 until the pin 3 can be seen.

Hold the worm gear down. Check disassembled parts for wear and replace if necessary. Reassemble in reverse sequence. Replace the cable drive shaft oil seal. Smontando il comando contagiri, togliere il raccordo cavo, sollevare l'alberino contagiri 1 dall'ingranaggio 2 fino a vedere il grano 3. Trattenere l'ingranaggio verso il basso. Controllare lo stato dei pezzi smontati e sostituire se necessario.

Rimontaggio nell'ordine inverso. Montare sempre un nuovo corteco per l'alberino. Check the teeth A of Starter gear 4 and ratchet gear 5 and the tooth flanks B of the Starter gear, as well as the bronze bushing. If replacement is necessary, exchange the 2 gears only in pairs.

Eventuale sostituzione ingranaggi va fatta in coppia. Zahnflanken des Ausgleichstriebes Ausgleichsrad 1 und Gegenrad 2 sowie des Freilaufrades und des Zwischenrades kontrollieren. Ausgleichsrad 1 und Gegenrad 2 nur gemeinsam austauschen. Check sprag clutch 3 and the 2 needle bearings. Exchange balance gear 1 and counter-gear 2 only in pairs.

Controllare la ruota libera 3 e i 2 cuscinetti a rulli. Remove combustion residues from piston crown, and check carefully for cracks and signs of seizure. Replace if necessary. Clean piston ring grooves and oil drain bores and blast with compressed air. Wear limit of piston: Difference between maximum skirt dimension and cylinder diameter must not be greater than 0,17 mm. Wear limit of piston pin bore clearance: 0,08 mm. Eliminare i residui carboniosi dal cielo de!

Pulire le scanalature per i segmenti ed i fori per il ritorno d'olio e soffiarli con aria compressa. Limite di usura del pistone: La differenza tra la dimensione massima della camicia del pistone, e il diametro del cilindro, non deve superare 0,17 mm. Gegebenenfalls neue Kolbenringe verwenden. Alle Kolbenringe mit Aufschrift nach oben montieren unbedingt erforderlich beim Minutenring 2. Check piston rings for clean working surfaces.

Replace piston rings if necessary. The chrome plated compression ring 1 must be placed in top ring groove, the tapered ring 2 in the middle, and the double oil control ring 3 in the bottom groove. Controllare che le superfici di scorrimento delle fasce elastiche siano pulite. Utilizzare, se necessario, fasce elastiche nuove. La fascia cromata 1 va messo nella scanalatura superiore, la fascia conica 2 nella scanalatura media e la fascia raschiaolio 3 nella scanalatura inferiore. Montare tutte le fasce elastiche con le scritte stampigliate verso l'alto assolutamente necessario per la fascia conica 2.

Kolbenring in den Zylinder stecken und mit dem Kolben ausrichten. Insert piston ring squarely into cylinder, using the bare piston. The end gap B should not exceed 1,0 mm and can be checked with a feeler gauge. If the end gap is greater, check piston and cylinder for wear. If piston and cylinder wear are within tolerance limits, replace the piston rings only. Inserire la fascia elastica nel cilindro ed allinearla col pistone.

Se l'usura del pistone e del cilindro si trova entro i limiti di tolleranza, sostituire la fascia elastica. Zylinderdurchmesser darf max. Die max. Check cylinder working surfaces for wear. If cylinder diameter exceeds nominal diameter by more than max. Ensure that sealing surfaces are clean. Ovality and taper max. Cylinder diameter for 1st oversize.

The sealing surface of cylinder, cylinder head side, must be plane. Controllare l'usura della superficie di scorrimento del cilindro. Assicurarsi che le superfici di tenuta siano pulite. Diametro cilindro per 1 a maggiorazione. La superficie di tenuta, lato testa cilindro, deve essere piana. Se necessario, abbassare perspianatura al massimo 0,3 mm. Zylinderkopf an den beiden Stiftschrauben M8 im Schraubstock mit Schutzbacken einspannen. Beide Ventildeckel 1 abschrauben und die 4 Ventileinstellschrauben 2 lockern.

Carefully remove combustion residues with blunt tool. Clamp cylinder head at the 2 studs M8 in the vice with protective jaws. Remove the 2 valve covers 1 and slacken the 4 valve adjusting screws 2. Unscrew the 2 plug screws 3 with wrench 8. Eliminare con cura i residui di combustione. Fissare la testata nella morsa sui prigionieri M8. Svitare i 2 coperchi delle valvole 1 e allentare le 4 viti di aggiustaggio delle valvole 2. Svitare i 2 tappi filettati 3 con una chiave da 8. Beide Kipphebel mit je 1 Anlaufscheibe und 1 Federscheibe herausnehmen.

Nun kann die Nockenwelle ohne Schwierigkeiten mit dem Abzieher herausgezogen werden. Remove both rocker spindles A with a screw M10 B. Take out both rocker arms with one thrust-washer and one spring-washer each. To remove the camshaft, take off lock ring 1 and remove spacer 2. After screwing in camshaft extractor 3 , hold hex. Caution: When the camshaft is extracted, the shim behind the oil seal sometimes drops into the lock-ring groove thus hindering complete removal of camshaft.

Remedy: Take off extractor, remove oil seal and take out shim. Now the camshaft can be taken out with the extractor easily. Remove cylinder head from vice, take out studs and remove dowel pins. Estrarre i due perni dei bilancieri A con una vite M10 B. Togliere i due bilancieri con 1 ralla e 1 rondella elastica di ciascun bilanciere. Per smontare l'albero a camme, togliere l'anello di arresto 1 ed estrarre il distanziatore 2. Dopo aver avvitato l'estrattore dell'albero a camme 3 , tenere fissa la brugola M8 4 ed estrarre l'albero a camme girando prudentemente il dado esagonale 5 in senso orario.

Rimedio: Togliere l'estrattore, quindi il corteco e togliere lo spessore. Togliere la testata dalla morsa, quindi togliere i prigionieri e le spine. Ventilfeder entspannen, Ventilfederteller, Ventilfeder und Ventil entfernen. Achtung: Vor dem Herausnehmen der Ventile sind diese zu markieren. Zylinderkopf und Einzelteile mit Benzin oder Petroleum reinigen. With valve spring push tool A and valve spring pliers or similar, compress the valve spring and remove the split cotters B.

Relieve valve spring, take out valve spring compression jig, valve spring and valve. Caution: Before valves are removed, they should be numbered. This Operation must be carried out on all 4 valves. Clean cylinder head and components with gasoline or kerosene.

Clean oil duct C carefully with compressed air and check for free passage. Check cylinder head sealing surface. If necessary, dress on appropriate plate. Rework must not exceed 0,2 mm. Comprimere la molla della valvola con l'attrezzo compressione molla valvola A e una pinza o un altro uttensile adatto e togliere i semiconi B. Scaricare la molla, togliere il piattello, la molla e la valvola stessa. Attenzione: Contrassegnare le valvole prima di estrarle. La suddetta operazione deve essere effettuata su tutte e 4 le valvole.

Pulire la testata e i pezzi tolti con benzina o petrolio. Pulire accuratamente il canaletto dell'olio C , soffiarlo con aria compressa e controllare che sia libero da intoppi. Controllare la superficie di tenuta della testa. Se necessario spianare su una piastra adatta. Valve guides 1 : max. Valve seats: Ensure clean sealing seat, grind if necessary. Camshaft 4 : Check both lobes and bearing seats for wear, fit new camshaft if necessary.

Rocker arm 5 : Check rocker arm roller 6 for easy movement, and if there is noticeable radial play, the rocker arm must be replaced. Check flat surface of adjusting screw 7 for wear. Needle cage 8 : Check needles and cage for damage, replace if necessary.

Check ballbearing and joint surfaces of cylinder head. It is advisable to fit new valve stem seals and to replace the camshaft oil seal. Guidavalvole 1 : diametro interno max. Sedi delle valvole: assicurarsi che le sedi a tenuta siano pulite, se necessario rettificarle. Albero a camme 4 : controllare l'usura profili delle due camme e delle sedi cuscinetti, se necessario montare un nuovo albero a camme.

Bilanciere 5 : controllare se il rullo del bilanziere 6 gira liberamente, in caso di giuoco radiale sostituire il bilanciere. Verificare l'usura della superficie piana della vite di aggiustaggio 7. Gabbia a rulli 8 : controllare se i rullini e la gabbia presentano danni, se necessario sostituirli. Controllare il cuscinetto a sfere e la superficie piana della testata. E consigliabile sostituire le guarnizioni degli steli delle valvole e il corteco dell'albero a camme.

Aus- und Einpressen erfolgt bei kaltem Zylinderkopf. The part of the valve guide projecting into the camshaft chamber must be knocked off. The valve guide breaks easily at the groove A and the guide can be driven out with a suitable punch towards combustion chamber without damaging the valve guide bore.

When pressing in the new valve guides, use slide paste Molycote GN. Then check valve seats. If necessary, re-cut them. Removal and replacement of valve guides should only be done when the cylinder head ist cold. Staccare la parte del guidavalvola che entra nel vano albero a camme.

Per il montaggio di un nuovo guidavalvola, utilizzare della pasta antibloccaggio Molycote GN. Alesare il guidavalvola con alesatore a diam. Poi controllare le sedi valvole; se necessario, rifresare. Sostituzione dei guidavalvole sempre a testata fredda. Zylinderkopf auf ca. Warm cylinder head to approx. Drive needle bearing 1 with suitable punch from outside inwards. Coat the bottom of new needle bearing with R.

Attention: Don't press on bottom but only against shoulder of needle bearing. Battere dall'esterno verso l'interno sulla gabbia 1 per mezzo di un punteruolo appropriato. Spalmare l'anello esterno della nuova gabbia a rulli con del Silicone.

Attenzione: L'attrezzo di inserimento deve premere solo sulla spalla corona esterna della bussola, non sul bassorilievo del fondo. O-Ring auf Nockenwelle schieben, Ausgleichscheibe auflegen, neuen eingefetteten WD-Ring mit Montagestempel einpressen und mit Sicherungsring fixieren. Stiftschrauben M8x mit langem Gewinde auspuffseitig, Stiftschraube M8x94 mit langem Gewinde ansaugseitig in Zylinderkopf einschrauben.

Fit spring seat washers over valve guides, press new valve stem seals onto the 4 valve guides. Insert lubricated valve, fit valve spring and valve spring retainer, press together with valve spring pliers and valve spring compressing jig and fit both split cotters. Check valves for tightness leak tester.

Slide O-ring onto camshaft, fit shim, press in new greased oil seal with assembly punch and fix with locking ring. Fit spacer and check camshaft for easy movement and axial play. Install rocker arm, bevel washer, shim and rocker arm pin with screw M10 2. Caution: Spring washers on screw plug side. Turn and tighten both screw plugs with wrench 8. M8x stud with long thread on exhaust side, M8x94 stud with long thread on intake side, screwed into cylinder head.

Rimettere le rondelle base molla sui guidavalvole. Premere un nuovo corteco sui 4 guidavalvole fino all'aggancio sul guidavalvola. Inserire la valvola oliata, applicare la molla, il piattello, comprimere con una pinza e l'attrezzo compressione molla e inserire i due semiconi. Controllare la tenuta delle valvole misuratore perdite.

Montare l'anello di tenuta OR sull'albero a camme, applicare lo spessore, introdurre il nuovo corteco opportunamente ingrassato con tampone di montaggio e fissare con l'anello di arresto. Montare il distanziatore e controllare il funzionamento libero e il giuoco assiale dell'albero a camme. Montare il bilanciere, lo spessore, la rondella elastica e il perno del bilanciere per mezzo di una vite M10 2.

Attenzione: Rondelle elastiche sul lato dei tappi a vite. Serrare i due tappi per mezzo di una chiave da 8. Avvitare i prigionieri M8x con la filettatura lunga sul lato di scarico, e il prigioniere M8x94 con la filettatura lunga sul lato di aspirazione nella testa. Das Ventilspiel wird zwischen Ventilschaft und Einstellschraube gemessen. O-Ringe in den Ventildeckeln kontrollieren, gegebenenfalls erneuern. Auf festen Sitz der Bordscheiben 3 achten. The cam position to adjust the valves for one pair of valves 2 intake, 2 exhaust is shown on the illustration.

The valve clearance is measured between the valve stem and the adjusting screw. Valve clearance cold: Intake: 0,05 mm, exhaust: 0,05 mm. Check O-rings in valve covers, replace if necessary. For engines with valve lifter: Mount valve cover with decompressor shaft on exhaust side. Attention: After fitting the valve cover, check for free movement of decompressor lever. Check upper and Iower timing pulleys, timing belt, tooth profiles, mating surface for oil seal, and timing belt.

Ensure that the belt guide washers of the lower pulley 3 are tigthly fastened to the pulley body. La posizione della camma per registrare, 2 per volta le valvole 2 valvole d'aspirazione risp. Giuoco valvole a freddo: aspirazione: 0,05 mm scarico: 0,05 mm Controllare gli OR nei coperchi valvole, sostituirli se necessario. Su versione motore con alzavalvola: Montare il coperchio valvole con alberino decompressione al lato scarico.

Attenzione: Dopo aver montato il coperchio valvole, controllare che la leva del decompressore abbia una certa corsa a vuoto. Controllare la puleggia comando superiore ed inferiore, la cinghia dentata, i profili dei denti e la superficie di scorrimento per il corteco puleggia albero motore. Sostituire se necessario. Controllare che le rondelle di spallamento 3 della puleggia albero motore siano fisse.

The main advantages compared with breaker units are: Greater reliability, because there are no wearing parts such as breaker or lubricating felt. The ignition system with external trigger is unaffected by moisture and dust and is completely maintenance-free. The ignition system must not be tested with conventional test equipment, because this will cause serious damage. The individual coils should be tested with an ohmmeter.

Compare the readings with following data sheet. Ignition timing can only be checked with a stroboscope while engine is running. To test the spark, the H. Un controllo dell'accensione non deve essere effettuato con i convenzionali strumenti di misura. Tali misurazioni causerebbero la distruzione dell'impianto. Le singole bobine devono essere verificate con un ohmmetro. I valori di misura possono essere rilevati nella tabella che segue.

Attenzione: Per fermare il motore non si deve in nessun caso staccare il cavo della candela. If the measured voltages are less than this, the regulator-rectifier is defective. Strumento di misura necessario: strumento per la misurazione di tensione continua circa 20 V. Gemessen wird der Widerstand zwischen zwei Kabeln. Remove amplifier box. Resistance is measured between two cables. Carefully note polarity on the measuring instrument!

Smontare la centralina. Si misura la resistenza tra due cavi. In tutto possono essere controllati 42 possibili punti di misura in questa maniera. Kalte Rillenkugellager der Kurbelwelle, Ausgleichswelle, Vorgelegewelle sowie der Hauptwelle mit geeignetem Montagestempel montieren. Install new crankshaft and mainshaft oil seals using assembly jigs and respectively.

Sealing lips must face inwards. Fit cold ballbearings on crankshaft, balance shaft, clutch shaft and mainshaft with appropriate assembly jigs. Montare un nuovo corteco per l'albero motore con tampone di montaggio e un nuovo corteco per l'albero secondario con tampone di montaggio dall'interno.

Montare i cuscinetti a sfere freddi dell'albero motore, dell'albero di compensazione, dell'albero primario e secondario con un tampone adatto. Achtung: Distanzring 35,2x50x4 auf der Kurbelwelle nicht vergessen. Kurbelwelle in dieser Position festhalten und Einziehring mit Hand so weit nach rechts drehen, bis Kurbelwelle in Einziehposition ist. Einziehspindel von Kurbelwelle abschrauben und Einziehglocke abnehmen. If the crankcase half is still sufficiently warm, the crankshaft can be inserted by hand.

Otherwise the crankshaft must be pulled in with the crankshaft pull-in tool as follows: Turn right crankcase half on trestle so that ignition side faces upwards. Mount puller bell 1 on crankcase half. Screw puller ring 2 onto pull-in spindle 3 until the crankshaft inserted from underneath can be screwed into the pull-in spindle. Caution: Don't forget spacer 35,2x50x4 on crankshaft and take care not to damage oil seal.

Hold crankshaft in this position and turn pull-in ring by hand clockwise until the crankshaft is drawn into position. Hold pull-in spindle by hand, insert handle 4 into pull-in ring and turn handle clockwise until the crankshaft is fully seated in the bearing. Caution: Take care not to trap the connection rod against the crankcase faces as the crankshaft is drawn into position, otherwise it may be bent.

Unscrew pull-in spindle from crankshaft and remove pull-in bell. Turn crankcase half so that joint surface faces upwards again. Altrimenti bisogna montarlo come segue mediante gli appositi attrezzi: Girare il semicarter destro sulla staffa in modo che il lato accensione sia in alto.

Mettere la campana d'inserimento 1 sul semicarter. Avvitare la ghiera 2 sull'asta a vite 3 fino a che l'albero motore, inserito dal basso, possa essere avvitato nell'asta. Attenzione: Non dimenticare il distanziatore 35,2x50x4 sull'albero motore. Non danneggiare il corteco. Tener fisso l'albero in questa posizione e girare manualmente la ghiera in senso orario fino a che l'albero sia in posizione d'inserzione.

Tener ferma con la mano l'asta a vite, introdurre la maniglia 4 nella ghiera e girare quest'ultima fino a che l'albero motore sia stato portato completamente nel cuscinetto. Attenzione: La biella deve essere orientata verso il cilindro, altrimenti rischia deformazione. Use the proper tool the special pizza cutter wheel designed for the task.

You likely spent more on the knifes than what the wheel cost with the correct tapes. You make the next time doubly hard to open not using the correct tapes! Hows the built in microphone? You may have messed it up. Stelle sicher, dass du den Griff immer hinter dem Rad hinterher schiebst. Gerry - In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive.

Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive.

I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly! The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen. I concur, opening the screen a 2nd time is considerably more difficult because the adhesive strips are thinner than the original, which makes getting the cutting tool inserted much more difficult….

The first time opening was easy, second time resulted in a ruined screen.. The cost of. I would recommend anyone attempting to remove the screen for any reason, do not use the aftermarket adhesive strips if you ever intend to open it up; again, or cut the strips much shorter, or possibly use a few pieces of scotch tape or similar to hold the screen in place…. Baxter - Some parts cut easier and some require a lot like 20x of gentle back and forth.

Boris - Sei vorsichtig und stelle sicher, dass du die Karten nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit mm more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily! Peter Fischer - Edgar Broekema - Eugene Kharkov - I broke one too.

I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!. Denis Sytmen - HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …. Barthold - On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9. Damian Chadwick - The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary. Art Hackett - The card really helps to break the panel free.

Lennart Saaf - Great idea! Wish I had read this before doing it. Michael Piplani - S Hussain - Its no different from how you use a knife to cut your chicken up when you serve it for dinner. Zu viel Kraft kann das Display zerbrechen.

Arbeite vorsichtig. Versuche nicht, den Spalt mehr als 6 mm breit zu machen. My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge.

Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby. Julia S. Hebe den Bildschirm nur einige Zentimeter an. Er ist immer noch mit dem Logic Board des iMacs mit Kabeln verbunden. Marco De Palma - Luca Mucci - Go very slowly when lifting the display — give time for the adhesive at the bottom edge to stretch and flow.

If you lift too fast, the glass can crack. The stickiest location on my iMac was the mid-to-lower section of the right side. There are a couple of thicker areas that needed attention from the plastic cards. Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

Alastair Lack - Ed tabickman - Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? Joseph Orr - After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected!

I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically and with a proper support for inclination makes this step slightly easier…. Interesting comments.. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up.

My workaround was to prep the screen for re-installation and then place it in front of the standing machine. The cables are long and flexible enough to be put in place even in this state. You can easily attach the cables and continue with fixing the screen to the housing. Ziehe das Kabel gerade zur oberen Kante des iMacs aus dem Anschluss heraus. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display looks partly not broken. I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables.. I think whenever words like " It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

Jim Reitz - Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed. Marsha Giardina - I can take a picture, but cannot attach.

I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]. Jim Kelly - Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation! Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? Bryan - First : During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips.

That way you can fix any issues like a damaged cable if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable.

I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly. Chip T - These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass.

The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up. Anthony Crocker - Have a late model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything. We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable.

Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Zach Tweel - I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card.

Marco Rizzo-Scheible - As if no connected. Durain - Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for!! David Zemsky - Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently.

Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen! Peter Haigh - There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1. I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display. Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit. Todd Derek - The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end.

Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen. Andrew Stephens - Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen. Bas ti - Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass.

Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display. Kurt Grootjans - Rote Markierung. Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

Wizbang FL - Thomas Webb - What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to. Eric - John Warmann - You probably had just an SSD installed and no HD, which is on the opposite side of the motherboard and quite a bit more work to access.

I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant. Charlie Nancarrow - David Mariaux - Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. Not a sign of life :- I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too? David Rosner - Sei vorsichtig bei der Handhabung des Bildschirms.

Die Kanten des Displays sind zerbrechlich. Vermeide es, ihn an den Ecken hochzuheben. Nachdem der Kleber durchschnitten worden ist, kann er nicht mehr zu Verkleben des Displays verwendet werden. You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it.

Achte auf alle Kabel, Sensoren und Schaumstoffformteile, welche auf dem neuen Display fehlen. Wenn sich ein Kabel oder ein Draht unter einem Klebeband befinden, dann ziehe das Klebeband immer vorher ab. Ziehe niemals direkt an empfindlichenh Steckern. Eventuell musst du sie mit doppelseitigem Klebeband am neuen Display befestigen.

If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the partially disconnected sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. Hello all. Would this help with the backlight?

Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Jordan Shababy - Ziehe das linke Lautsprecherkabel aus dem Anschluss heraus. Achte darauf, den Stecker gerade aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu ziehen. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker.

The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer. Robert - Joseph Ashe - If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge? Dominic Pettifer - Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben hoch, bis das Kabel zur Einschalttaste frei liegt ca.

Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing! Fabio Braga - I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive. Alber Einsten - Matthew Gonzalez - It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame.

Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker. Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement?

Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans? Carl Schultz - If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat. Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable. Ben Hannam - The bracket screws are T If you seem to need a T8, you are actually trying to remove the wrong two screws.

I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed. If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape or something similar to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs. Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal. Good Luck! Gregorio Alvarado Sahli - Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure.

Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Just wondering if the HDD 3. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. Thanks in advance :. Declan Casey - The new cable slid in from the hard drive side with little effort. Gerhard Dietrichsteiner - All I received was a black back plate.

Where is the rest of it? Oh boy. Selwyn Arnold - Wenn der Stecker nicht korrekt hinein geht, dann drehe die SSD um und versuche es noch einmal. Der Stecker passt nur auf eine Art. Does the small temperature sensor board have to be purchased separately for a iMac or is there one already attached to the HDD?

Richard Lee - Hi Richard, our upgrade kit does come with a temperature sensor, but a hard drive bought by itself will not come with one. Adam O'Camb - The enclosure that came with my kit is all plastic, does the sensor have to be connected to metal? If yes, where would it go given the all-plastic enclosure? Lynne Mitchell - It does not have to be connected to metal. Arthur Shi - There was no temperature sensor on the HDD.

I have the Fan Controller that is pictured in this manual on Steps 39, 40 and The photos do not show a small two-conductor cable connected from the Fan Controller circuit board to the logic board. Should I still install the Fan Controller and not worry about connecting the controller sensor to the logic board? Thank you for creating an excellent manual!

David Higgins - Could I break my computer or the SSD? Thank you in advance for your answer. You can use Mac Fan Control as a software solution. More than anything, your SSD will run warmer than usual, which could shorten its lifespan. The machine was originally ordered with 3TB Fusion Drive. All is good here! I keep these laying around just in case. Andy Blakely - No fan or heat issues over the last week of use. Please note this Samsung drive is not the primary workhorse on the machine as I also upgraded my PCI ssd and use that as the primary drive.

Charly Dewost - Sie lassen sich dann nur schwer eindrehen. This was an understatement for my drive adapter. The adapter had threads that I believe were M3 threaded whereas the mounting pins are what I believer are screws. The mounting pins are not threaded well for self-tapping, so I recommend finding an old screw that used to be used for mounting optical drives into PC cases and using those to thread the holes.

You can make sure you have the correct size by screwing the sacrificial screws into the old hard drive where they should fit easily before using them to cut new threads into your 2. After that, the mounting pins went into the adapter with very little effort.

Jakegub - Maurya Gajjar - A few hours should be fine. I suggest checking the screen after a week and after a month to make sure the adhesive is still fully bonded. As soon as the adhesive strips make contact with the glass you will quickly lose the ability to adjust this to line up. Hat die Reparatur nicht ganz geklappt? In unserem Forum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.

Wie kann ich mithelfen? Auszeichnungen: Antonio - Dear Antonio have solved your question? Before opening the mac I wanted to know what was needed to do the upgrade How are the temperature sensing and fan speeds affected by a swap? The fans will go a little crazy because of the swap.

You can download either, which I believe work just fine:.

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Filip Dolatowski - You are very lucky! All three cut the display ribbon cables. Use the proper tool the special pizza cutter wheel designed for the task. You likely spent more on the knifes than what the wheel cost with the correct tapes. You make the next time doubly hard to open not using the correct tapes! Hows the built in microphone? You may have messed it up. Stelle sicher, dass du den Griff immer hinter dem Rad hinterher schiebst.

Gerry - In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive.

I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly! The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging.

Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen. I concur, opening the screen a 2nd time is considerably more difficult because the adhesive strips are thinner than the original, which makes getting the cutting tool inserted much more difficult….

The first time opening was easy, second time resulted in a ruined screen.. The cost of. I would recommend anyone attempting to remove the screen for any reason, do not use the aftermarket adhesive strips if you ever intend to open it up; again, or cut the strips much shorter, or possibly use a few pieces of scotch tape or similar to hold the screen in place…. Baxter - Some parts cut easier and some require a lot like 20x of gentle back and forth.

Boris - Sei vorsichtig und stelle sicher, dass du die Karten nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit mm more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily! Peter Fischer - Edgar Broekema - Eugene Kharkov - I broke one too. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

Denis Sytmen - HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …. Barthold - On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9. Damian Chadwick - The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary. Art Hackett - The card really helps to break the panel free. Lennart Saaf - Great idea! Wish I had read this before doing it. Michael Piplani - S Hussain - Its no different from how you use a knife to cut your chicken up when you serve it for dinner.

Zu viel Kraft kann das Display zerbrechen. Arbeite vorsichtig. Versuche nicht, den Spalt mehr als 6 mm breit zu machen. My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step.

After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

Julia S. Hebe den Bildschirm nur einige Zentimeter an. Er ist immer noch mit dem Logic Board des iMacs mit Kabeln verbunden. Marco De Palma - Luca Mucci - Go very slowly when lifting the display — give time for the adhesive at the bottom edge to stretch and flow.

If you lift too fast, the glass can crack. The stickiest location on my iMac was the mid-to-lower section of the right side. There are a couple of thicker areas that needed attention from the plastic cards. Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal.

This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting! Alastair Lack - Ed tabickman - Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? Joseph Orr - After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive.

Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal.

I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically and with a proper support for inclination makes this step slightly easier…. Interesting comments.. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up.

My workaround was to prep the screen for re-installation and then place it in front of the standing machine. The cables are long and flexible enough to be put in place even in this state. You can easily attach the cables and continue with fixing the screen to the housing. Ziehe das Kabel gerade zur oberen Kante des iMacs aus dem Anschluss heraus.

When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display looks partly not broken. I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up. Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables.. I think whenever words like " It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

Jim Reitz - Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed. Marsha Giardina - I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]. Jim Kelly - Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation! Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it?

Bryan - First : During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues like a damaged cable if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place.

Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly. Chip T - These must be squeezed to unlatch it.

Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass.

The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up. Anthony Crocker - Have a late model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything.

We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Zach Tweel - I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card. Marco Rizzo-Scheible - As if no connected.

Durain - Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for!! David Zemsky - Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen! Peter Haigh - There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display.

There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1. I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display. Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit. Todd Derek - The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

Andrew Stephens - Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen. Bas ti - Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass.

Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display. Kurt Grootjans - Rote Markierung. Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated.. Wizbang FL - Thomas Webb - What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures?

I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to. Eric - John Warmann - You probably had just an SSD installed and no HD, which is on the opposite side of the motherboard and quite a bit more work to access. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant. Charlie Nancarrow - David Mariaux - Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. Not a sign of life :- I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm?

Or could something else have broken too? David Rosner - Sei vorsichtig bei der Handhabung des Bildschirms. Die Kanten des Displays sind zerbrechlich. Vermeide es, ihn an den Ecken hochzuheben. Nachdem der Kleber durchschnitten worden ist, kann er nicht mehr zu Verkleben des Displays verwendet werden. You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Achte auf alle Kabel, Sensoren und Schaumstoffformteile, welche auf dem neuen Display fehlen.

Wenn sich ein Kabel oder ein Draht unter einem Klebeband befinden, dann ziehe das Klebeband immer vorher ab. Ziehe niemals direkt an empfindlichenh Steckern. Eventuell musst du sie mit doppelseitigem Klebeband am neuen Display befestigen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact.

The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the partially disconnected sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. Hello all. Would this help with the backlight? Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Jordan Shababy - Ziehe das linke Lautsprecherkabel aus dem Anschluss heraus.

Achte darauf, den Stecker gerade aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu ziehen. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer. Robert - Joseph Ashe - If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU?

Do the capacitors eventually discharge? Dominic Pettifer - Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben hoch, bis das Kabel zur Einschalttaste frei liegt ca. Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing! Fabio Braga - I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive.

You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive. Alber Einsten - Matthew Gonzalez - It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame.

Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker. Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement? Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans?

Carl Schultz - If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat. Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable. Ben Hannam - The bracket screws are T If you seem to need a T8, you are actually trying to remove the wrong two screws. I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.

If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape or something similar to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs. Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal. Good Luck! Gregorio Alvarado Sahli - Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure.

Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Just wondering if the HDD 3. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. Thanks in advance :. Declan Casey - The new cable slid in from the hard drive side with little effort.

Gerhard Dietrichsteiner - All I received was a black back plate. Where is the rest of it? Oh boy. Selwyn Arnold - Wenn der Stecker nicht korrekt hinein geht, dann drehe die SSD um und versuche es noch einmal. Der Stecker passt nur auf eine Art. Does the small temperature sensor board have to be purchased separately for a iMac or is there one already attached to the HDD?

Richard Lee - Hi Richard, our upgrade kit does come with a temperature sensor, but a hard drive bought by itself will not come with one. Adam O'Camb - The enclosure that came with my kit is all plastic, does the sensor have to be connected to metal? If yes, where would it go given the all-plastic enclosure?

Lynne Mitchell - It does not have to be connected to metal. Arthur Shi - There was no temperature sensor on the HDD. I have the Fan Controller that is pictured in this manual on Steps 39, 40 and The photos do not show a small two-conductor cable connected from the Fan Controller circuit board to the logic board. Should I still install the Fan Controller and not worry about connecting the controller sensor to the logic board?

Thank you for creating an excellent manual! David Higgins - Could I break my computer or the SSD? Thank you in advance for your answer. You can use Mac Fan Control as a software solution. More than anything, your SSD will run warmer than usual, which could shorten its lifespan. The machine was originally ordered with 3TB Fusion Drive. All is good here! I keep these laying around just in case. Andy Blakely - No fan or heat issues over the last week of use.

Please note this Samsung drive is not the primary workhorse on the machine as I also upgraded my PCI ssd and use that as the primary drive. Charly Dewost - Sie lassen sich dann nur schwer eindrehen. This was an understatement for my drive adapter. The adapter had threads that I believe were M3 threaded whereas the mounting pins are what I believer are screws. The mounting pins are not threaded well for self-tapping, so I recommend finding an old screw that used to be used for mounting optical drives into PC cases and using those to thread the holes.

You can make sure you have the correct size by screwing the sacrificial screws into the old hard drive where they should fit easily before using them to cut new threads into your 2. After that, the mounting pins went into the adapter with very little effort. Jakegub - Maurya Gajjar - A few hours should be fine. I suggest checking the screen after a week and after a month to make sure the adhesive is still fully bonded. As soon as the adhesive strips make contact with the glass you will quickly lose the ability to adjust this to line up.

Hat die Reparatur nicht ganz geklappt? In unserem Forum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche. Wie kann ich mithelfen? Auszeichnungen: Antonio - Dear Antonio have solved your question? Before opening the mac I wanted to know what was needed to do the upgrade There is one complication though, the screws for the terminals are bigger than the originals so you must make the holes in the terminals bigger.

I do this with a drill with a stepped bit. That is all there is to it. What if your SX needs more work than just the filters? You can go to my eBay store where you will find service listings for this model. You can simply send it to me, and I will do the whole thing. If you live too far away to do that…….

How cool is that? Further comments on filter capacitor replacement will follow below:. Vintage receivers need new filter capacitors. Forty plus years is a long time for football players and capacitors. Replacing them is more complex than you might suppose. You cannot simply order new ones just like the old ones……they are not out there. This means you must be clever and find new ones that will be good replacements for what you have. To do this, you must address the issues of electrical value, physical fit, and termination.

Capacitance is expressed in microfarads, noted as mfd or Uf. The exact same value mfd is just fine, and going moderately higher is also ok……not lower. The voltage specification is much the same, it can be higher, but do not go lower. Go for it, your bass response will be tighter and you will like the results. What to do about that? The rule of thumb is whatever scheme is used for the new mounting, it must be tidy and professional looking.

I hate that. The best case is to use a clamp of the correct size, and when you are lucky, the screw holes will match up. When you are not, you must drill new holes. Second best is to epoxy the new caps into a handy location. This isn't always easy. You have to figure out your best option. Replacing the old cap with a new one that is exactly the same is the best option.

It is not always possible. Sometimes I find myself down at the hardware store buying ring terminals so I can install a cap with screw terminals in the place of one with leads…. Once again, make it look professional. You must make darn sure that the correct polarity is observed. Getting this reversed and plugging it in and turning it on will not be a pretty thing.

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